Monday, 4 March 2013

Morning walk

Nipped up to Caley this morning for a walk with Phoebe and Whisper and a quick scout out of a few problems I want to do this year. Caley has been my local crag for a while now.... having said that, I've failed to tick much up there and have only really visited a couple of times with Adam.
Route-wise so far I've done:

  • Noonday ridge E1 5b
  • Rip Off E3 6a
  • Tip Off E2 5b
  • Fred Zinnerman E4 6b (dogged my way up on top rope)
Bouldering I've managed to tick:
  • Bob's Bastard 1 F6a
  • Bob's bastard 2 F6b+
  • Low Pebble Wall F6a
  • Forked Lightning Crack F6b+
  • Otley Wall F6a+
After today's visit I'm definitely adding:
  • Ephedrine E4 6a
  • Finger Knacker Crack E3 6a
  • The Roof Of The World  V6
Looking forward to the next outing to Caley!

Sunday, 3 March 2013

A grand day out

Well yesterday sort of went as planned, Toby, Whisper and I made our way to Crookrise and quickly jumped on the trad routes around the Arsenic Slab area. We quickly dispatched Diagonal Crack (VD) and Octopus Direct (VS) after that I had a quick try at Winter Rain (E2 5c) but having not brought along any gear small enough I decided that the consequences of falling off the hard sequence far outweighed any possible glory of bagging the route and so reversed the route. We made a quick trip around the corner to knock off The Shelf (E2 5b) and then onto the first boulder problem of the day - Barry Kingsize. Lacking any real beta we just jumped straight into it and managed to make it to the final move without any real problems. I had been told that to go to the top static was easier to hold though took a lot more figuring out, needless to say with limited time on our hands we decided to go for the harder to hold dyno option. 30 mins later we'd run out of time at Crookrise and needed to head off to Crag X.

Driving over to the new venue into the sunshine we were sure that this was going to be a satisfying afternoon, following a short walk-in we soon decided between us that we should go for the largest " alter of the moon" boulder as I've dubbed it. Through the rest of the afternoon we put up 12 new problems at around V0 to V3 with a mixture of sit starts, mantles and slabs. Toby soon bagged a great slab problem "Thai Green Curry"  V0, in Toby's words it was "green and a little bit spicy". Moon Arete soon followed another little gem at V0 with a nice V2 sit start, Larry Smallsize V1 and a collection of other problems followed at around the same grade.

Next visit we'll try to tick a few of the harder lines and one more visit after that should see the majority of the problems up to around V6 ticked. After that I'll submit topos, grade and pictures etc to www.yorkshiregrit.com and www.ukclimbing.com and put them up on here.

Friday, 1 March 2013

New problems

Very excited today as I'm getting prepared for a trip to Crookrise tomorrow followed by putting up some new problems in the afternoon (weather permitting). I've done a fair bit of research and the only reference to any problems I can find are on www.yorkshiregrit.com happily a few of the obvious lines have been bagged but there still seems to be a huge amount of development potential here still. Below are a few photos I've taken of the spot over the past few days.

There seems to be a wide range of problems between font 4 and font 8a (at a guess) so far I've counted nearly 50 possible problems on walks up there with Phoebe and Whisper... just excited to go up with out a 17 month old toddler on my back!



Obvious line using the layback crack.

fantastic boulder, the picture doesn't really do it justice

colossal roof (the lip is about 10ft up) the boulder is propped against another restricting the amount of lines but there's definitely possibilty of some scary mantles.

The roof viewed from the side showing the boulder beneath

backside of the roof boulder

a tidy little prow

more sloping mantles and traverses

view from the far side of the boulders

nice shallow groove running up this slabby boulder

hard problem up the sloping arete

lots of potential here