Training for climbing part 2

Forget the previous training plan.... go straight to the source!

Great plan by Ned here:

http://www.planetfear.com/images/cms//PDF/Beginners%20Fingerboard%20Training%20Ned%20Feehally%20planetFear.pdf

Gonna follow this for the time being.

Training for climbing this year

A few years ago I started to record a series of videos of myself training on my home made fingerboard, partly to feed my own ego and partly so I could see how I improved over time. The plan fell apart as I failed to devise much of a training plan and subsequently injured myself through over training. This year is the first year in about 5 years where I feel like I'm injury free (at the moment) and so I'm going to try and maintain a proper diary of training and performance.

Since I started climbing again in November I've been taking part in The Depot (Leeds) winter bouldering series, at the moment I'm sitting in 16th place:

Round #1 207 
Round #2 217 
Round #3 227 

Total Pts 651

Steady increase of 10 points per round, however the last round I made some stupid mistakes which cost me probably the best part of 20 points, so hoping for more consistency in round #4 which starts tonight. 

As for fingerboards I'm working from a beastmaker 1000 at the moment, this is my first attempt at a proper training sheet, any feedback is most welcome:

	Left	Right	How many
Set 1	1	1	x10
30 secs
Set 2	1	3	x5
	3	1	x5
30 secs
Set 3	4	3	x5
	3	4	x5
30 secs
Set 4 (DH)	7	7	max effort
30 secs
set 5 (lock off)	3	3	max effort
	Rest 5 minutes 30 press ups 50 crunches 30 dorsal raises plank for 1 minute
	Repeat x 3

MRC Fingerboards

A friend of mine has started making some cracking looking fingerboards (great value at £55.00 for a wood board), I look forward to getting my hands on one and trying it out against my well used Beastmaker 1000.

Check out MRC Climbing on facebook!

2013 Prospects

Ok with the change into 2013 I've decided to start a lame climbing blog thingy. I started a few weeks ago by uploading a bouldering wishlist to my facebook profile so what better way to start than with the wishlist:

Crookrise

Barry Kingsize font 7a

Karjala font 7a+

Sadcocs Wall font 6c+

The crease direct font 6a

Hovis superdirect font 6c+

Green Beret font 6b

Pixie Tits (standing start) font 6c

Woodwell

Tom's Traverse font 6c+ 

Screaming Slave font 7b ** 

Crucifix Kiss font 7a+ ** 

Screaming Slave (using everything) font 7a

Sampson's Stones

Event Horizon font 6c+ *** 

The Light of Other Days font 7a+ **

Axions font 7a+ ** 

Pulsar font 7a **

Thorn Crag

Knights Of The Turntables font 6c 6b ** 

Elemental font 6c *** 

Bad Moon Rising font 7b+ *** 

Fix My Sink font 7b ** 

Mothership Reconnection font 7a+ ***

Burnt Heather font 6b *** 

And For My Next Trick font 7a ***

Bowderstone

The Crack font 6c ***

Kentmere

The Karma of Trees (stand up) font 7c **

Stanage Plantation

Brad Pit font 7c+ ***

Jerry's Traverse font 7c ***

Rose and the Self-employed Business Man font 7a+ *** 

Pebble Arete - Sit Start font 7a ** 

The Green Traverse font 7a *** 

Satin font 7a **

Eskdale Fisherground

Rob's Wall font 7a+ *** 

Strong Arete font 7a+ ***

Problem 6 font 6c+ **

The Lion, Animal Boulder V5 ***

St Bees Head

Yellow Desert Scream font 7a+ ***

Hueco Crack (stand up) font 6c 

The Arete font 7a *** 

Caley

Horn Rib font 7a+ **

New Jerusalem font 7a ***

Cream Egg Eliminate font 7a ***

Almscliff

The Little Greeny font 6c

There's a very good chance that I won't get half of these ticked but I'm off to Crookrise on saturday so it begins!