Thursday, 28 February 2013

Training for climbing this year

A few years ago I started to record a series of videos of myself training on my home made fingerboard, partly to feed my own ego and partly so I could see how I improved over time. The plan fell apart as I failed to devise much of a training plan and subsequently injured myself through over training. This year is the first year in about 5 years where I feel like I'm injury free (at the moment) and so I'm going to try and maintain a proper diary of training and performance.

Since I started climbing again in November I've been taking part in The Depot (Leeds) winter bouldering series, at the moment I'm sitting in 16th place:

Round #1 207 
Round #2 217 
Round #3 227 

Total Pts 651

Steady increase of 10 points per round, however the last round I made some stupid mistakes which cost me probably the best part of 20 points, so hoping for more consistency in round #4 which starts tonight. 

As for fingerboards I'm working from a beastmaker 1000 at the moment, this is my first attempt at a proper training sheet, any feedback is most welcome:
















LeftRightHow many
Set 111x10
30 secs
Set 213x5
31x5
30 secs
Set 343x5
34x5
30 secs
Set 4 (DH)77max effort
30 secs
set 5
(lock off)
33max effort
Rest 5 minutes

30 press ups
50 crunches
30 dorsal raises
plank for 1 minute
Repeat x 3

1 comment:

  1. DH is dead hang incase you hadn't guessed, set 5 is a 90 deg lock off

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